Tag: Cyanolumen

I’ve had a bit of a breakthrough

Yet another experiment resulted in a disappointing outcome, although there was a hint of possibility in my last but one experiment because I seem to have a better consistency of cyanotype chemicals and gelatine. There is still a problem coating the paper, partly I think because the cyanotype emulsion is diluted too far with the gelatine so is too weak but also, its still does not adhere well to the shiny surface. As a result I doubled up the exposure time and still felt it could have done with longer.

But, after following my bullet points from the last post, leaving the print overnight before washing, soaking for 5 minutes in iced water, then washing, I have a print with some evidence of cyanotype as well as ink.

It is a pretty rubbish image but the purpose was to experiment getting the emulsion to stick to the shiny paper without using more resources rather than creating a work of art, so I will persevere and see what materialises.

I have however had a little bit of a breakthrough in that someone on the Facebook Cyanotype page posted some images she created using cyanotype and alcohol ink. Her process is different but I think very successful.

Cyanotype tinted with alcohol ink by Leigh Wallace

Leigh mixes her own chemicals, exposes, adds vinegar to the rinse then hand tints with alcohol ink diluted with a little water. The gold border is also added this way. I think this is stunning and would certainly hang it on my wall!

As I am still very much in the experimental stage and as previously mentioned, keen not to use too many expensive resources in the process, I have gone back to an existing print to try this out. My first question was why dilute in water rather than more alcohol, so I have tried both. This is a cyanolumen from a couple of weeks ago on the left and the tinted version on the right.

In the tinted version, the pink, or ‘plum purple’ as it says on the bottle, is diluted in water, whereas the yellow is diluted in isopropyl alcohol. I actually found the ink diluted with alcohol easier to work with. It dries more quickly and it seems to have a more translucent quality. I also painted some of the yellow on the blobs and quite liked the effect that gave. There are so many variables though and each impacts differently on the outcome.

For example, this print was made on expired dark room paper, Kentmare Bromide Stipple, and that may have an impact, so next experiment with be on the watercolour paper I usually use for cyanotypes. For the first time in a couple of weeks though, I am starting to see a glimmer of light at the end of the tunnel.

Further experiments with cyanotype and alcohol ink

Following on from my last post, I decided to take my experiments with cyanotype and alcohol ink a little further because in neither case I had got exactly what I was looking for.

In the second print in my last post, which was on watercolour paper, whilst I quite liked the painterly effect, the whole thing was under exposed, either that or the PVA size, which I had added to allow me to manipulate the ink, had stopped the cyanotype chemicals from being absorbed into the paper. Either way, I needed to work out what was happening. So, I coated the paper and exposed it again, carefully placing the same seedhead onto the wet paper.

I didn’t add any of the additional extras that I would normally add to wet cyanotypes, such as vinegar, turmeric or soap suds, one thing at a time!

The resulting print is certainly more like a cyanotype than the previous attempt. I do need to think more carefully about what effect I want from the ink, so more practice needed there. I also need to take my time and do some test prints to get the exposure right. This one, being wet , was exposed for several hours, then left overnight before I removed the plant material and washed the print. In the end, it was washed for quite a long time to get as much chemical out as possible as the print was quite dark.

I mentioned in my last post that Yupo paper is quite expensive. Too expensive to experiment with really, but there doesn’t seem to be a right or wrong side and as the chemicals don’t soak into the paper, I decided to try my second experiment with this, on the reverse of the first print.

First time round, I felt that the consistency of the gelatine was too thick, so after a few more YouTube searches, I diluted it further. I’m still not sure I have the ratio of gelatine to cyanotype chemicals correct, if anything, I may have diluted the gelatine too far this time, as the solution did not adhere to the paper was well as I’d hoped. Again, this was exposed whilst the paper was still wet and again, whilst not what I had expected, it does have potential and I do quite like the painterly effect.

My final print from this session was a wet cyanolumen on expired Kentmere Bromide Stipple darkroom paper. Again I added a little of the gelatine mix to the coating solution as last time I used this paper, I found that the cyanotype chemicals did not adhere to the paper very well. The only problem I had this time was that the plant material stuck to the paper so I had to soak it the whole thing in order to remove it. The plant material here is bluebells and ferns pressed last year and then forgotten about. This print was fixed in Ilford Rapid Fixer. Do I need to do that with a cyanolumen? I know I need to fix lumen prints but not sure if I need to fix cyanolumens too, need to check that one out!